When inspiration strikes JJ Valaya, he doesn’t cram all of it into one assortment —”I wish to discover the nuances and incorporate it for no less than a 12 months,” says the Delhi-based designer. In his newest couture assortment, Tabriz, which dropped on Saturday with an extravagant present at The Imperial New Delhi, he attracts from the one-time capital of ruling Persian dynasties.
Valaya has spent the final three years on hiatus, however has saved busy nonetheless. Earlier this 12 months, he was inventive director and mentor of Be Bahrain, a craft primarily based undertaking that was showcased on the Bahrain Artwork Truthful. In 2018, he celebrated 25 years of his model with The Alika Undertaking, the place he collaborated with 24 different designers (together with Suket Dhir, Pero, Ekaya, Antar Agni and Amrapali) on his signature jacket. He was additionally a part of the Elephant Parade, designing the Kashmir Ki Kali elephant that was on show in Sloane Sq., Chelsea.
As somebody who spends quite a lot of effort and time on analysis, Valaya says he turns to his large library for particulars and knowledge. Nevertheless, he has by no means learn a e-book in his life. “All of them are visual! That’s my world, so I turn to photobooks,” he explains, including, “I have been intrigued by Persia and its manifestation across cultures. You won’t see a motif directly picked up or replicated, but there are details that cater to that part of the world.”
The 42 outfits within the assortment — that includes lehengas, saris, skirts, peplum blouses, sherwanis and bandhgalas — are break up into three distinct strains. The primary is titled ‘Farsh’, impressed by Persian looking rugs that are distinguished by their colors and motifs of natural world. ‘Khayyam’ attracts from the craft of the royal tent makers, and options vintage mirror-work, tough cotton yarn and appliqué. “I have combined these inspirations with my love for Art Deco, and come up with a linear / ornamental form,” he says. ‘Naqshband’ is the grandest of the lot: florals in metallic threads and beads, borders with vintage crystals and pearls, on wealthy reds and sage greens, in silks, velvets and tulle.
The whole assortment has been created in collaboration with Swarovski, whose affiliation with Valaya goes again virtually 17 years, after they entered the Indian market. “I was their first brand ambassador; I don’t think I have done a single couture line without using their crystals since then,” he says. The spotlight of the present was an embellished burgundy lehenga encrusted with virtually 12,000 crystals. “We have had a lot of fun combining new age mediums such as Swarovski, with age-old techniques [of surface ornamentation] to create our own DNA,” concludes Valaya.
Photos by particular association and from @jjvalaya on Instagram.