The final time I ate vonn was in Goa. It was at a small restaurant, and the dessert got here in a small metal katori, aromatic with the headiness of jaggery. It was a bowl of nostalgia, harking back to a childhood spent consuming this beloved coconut milk and palm jaggery dish. My subsequent encounter with vonn is surprisingly, at a five-star resort. Right here, the dish got here dressed up in a textured glass bowl, sprinkled with cashewnuts, and a white coconut sphere snuck in its centre. It didn’t appear like the vonn of my childhood but it surely tasted the identical; the addition of sorghum giving it a brand new and chewy texture.
Sorghum Vonn with Coconut Sphere (₹750) is a part of an ongoing restricted and wholesome menu being supplied at The Sahib Room & Kipling Bar. The menu is devoted to celebrating lesser used greens and grains, particularly in eating places. In step with individuals’s dietary restrictions throughout Navratri festivities, it’s an entirely vegetarian menu. You received’t miss the meat. “The idea behind the menu was to do vegetables with a difference. Every dish has an element — a grain or a vegetable — you wouldn’t associate with a restaurant or a five star [hotel],” says Paul Kinny, culinary director, The St Regis Mumbai. Their largest problem was creating dishes that had been acquainted to diners and worthy of the restaurant. They accordingly spent six months in analysis and did two months of trials. The ultimate menu has 11 dishes pairing grains and greens and a choice of breads. We start the meal with Panifal ka Shorba (₹650), a deserving technique to spotlight water chestnuts. It’s creamy, gentle on the spice and has an underlying tanginess. There’s a crunchy shock within the type of a rajgira chikki.
Grasp chef Asif Qureshi, whose nihari and biryani on the restaurant are fashionable says that it was a problem procuring and dealing on these ‘other’ elements like black rice, kohlrabi, ghosale and purple rice. One other problem was getting the workers to vary their mindsets and get used to working with ‘ghar ke sabzi’ like tinda.
The tinda in query is served as a Bharwan Tinda, Awadhi Korma (₹1,100). It’s filled with a mix of nuts and bell peppers. The accompanying Awadhi type gravy provides it a much-deserved richness, with the creamy tomato and almond gravy offering foil for the milder flavoured tinda. Kohlrabi Kedgeree (₹1,050) that’s harking back to a ghee-laden khichdi. One other Goan-inspired dish is the Kela Phool Vindaloo (₹1,100). It’s an odd dish with a savoury ghewar base sweetened by apricot chutney. The banana flower is spicy sufficient however lacks the daring vindaloo flavours.
The star of the meal is a kebab so tender it falls aside on the contact of a fork. Kathal Gilawat on Ragi Roti (₹1,100) makes use of the jackfruit seeds as an alternative of the fruit to make the kebab. It’s the right meaty texture and the kebab opens as much as reveal the faintest little bit of cheese. A dab of jackfruit puree on the highest is a strident reminder that it is a vegetarian dish. The subsequent dish highlights one other fruit from the jackfruit household, breadfruit. Roti Phal Baja (₹1,050) has thick slices of breadfruit pan seared with a thick rava crumb. Offering distinction and freshness to what’s a stodgy baja is a vibrant labneh and a salad of uncooked mango and peanuts. Apart from vonn, there’s a Nachni Malida for dessert too. The restricted menu is on until October 13, and could also be prolonged relying on reception. Some dishes stay as much as the bizarre pairings; others really feel like they’re making an attempt too laborious. These are usually not uncommon elements and so they don’t should be experimental of their cooking and plating. Typically, simplicity works greatest. Simply strive the vonn.
Until October 13. At The Sahib Room & Kipling Bar, The St. Regis Mumbai, Decrease Parel. 12 p.m. to three.30 p.m., 7 p.m. to 12 a.m.; 8291926985, 8291926986